The three graces of the Aegean

In his famous writings, Herodotus describes the unparalleled beauties of Ionia. He waxes lyrical about its gorgeous sky and matchless climate. Today, the region once known as Ionia covers the area from Izmir Foca to Aydın Soke. It is just as stunning now as it was in ancient times. Perhaps the most beautiful ancient settlement on the western shore of Anatolia is Priene. Located at the foot of the Samsun (Mykale) Mountain, the city has a spectacular view of the Meander Delta and the Aegean Sea.

Rich as Croesus

Although Priene was a small city, it played an important role in the Ionian League. Firstly, it was home to Panionion, the annual religious meeting place of the league. Secondly, Bias-one of the seven sages of antiquity-came from Priene. Bias is most celebrated for saying that "Wisdom should be cherished as a means of travelling from youth to old age, for it is more lasting than any other possession". Bias also features in a legend about King Croeses. Having extorted regular payments from the Ionian cities on the mainland, Croesus decided to deploy warships against the Ionian islands. Bias misled Croesus into believing that the Ionians were preparing 10,000 horses for a raid on Sardis. Croesus was pleased since the Lydians would probably triumph in a land battle. Bias astutely pointed out that the Ionians were superior fighters by sea, and would thus triumph if the Lydians attacked with their warships. Croesus was so impressed by Bias?s logic that he gave up the idea of attacking the islands.

Fate dictated by water

When it was established in 350BC, Priene was on the shore of the Aegean and near to the islands, making it an ideal centre of trade. However, the shore was gradually silted up by alluvium carried by the Meander River. By the 13th century, the city was deserted. Priene was designed by the renowned city planner Hippodamos on a grid pattern. The Temple of Athena with its restored columns is still an imposing structure, acting as a doorway between the Samsun Mountain behind it and the infinite vista of the sea stretching out in front. The requisite amphitheatre was built in the 3rd century BC and seated 5000 people. The front row has 5 seats that were reserved for the leading figures of the city. Plus, there is an altar where sacrifices were made to Dionysus-god of wine and theatre-before a performance. The square holes were used to hold up tents that protected the audience from the rain or beating sun.

How to get there

Take the Izmir, Selcuk,Soke road. After Soke, turn at the Priene sign. Priene is 25km away. Doganbey and Karine are 10km apart up the same road. Minibuses from Soke go to Gullubahce, near Priene. No public transport to Doganbey and Karine.

Where to stay

Gullubahce has a few pensions, but there are many options in Selcuk, Soke, Didim and Akbuk--near enough for a day trip.

Where to eat

Try the Karine Shore Restaurant. Hakan Bingol. 0533 312 99 47-0535 480 79 64.