A new coast town

Think of Adana, and you'll probably think of spicy kebabs, hot weather and fiery-tempered feudal Agas. However, my image of Adana has been changed forever. During my trip, I even saw 40-something lady joggers out at 7 am. To the north of the old city, a region known as New Adana has sprung up. It is extremely modern and comfortable. People of all ages are out wandering the parks and promenades, proving that Adana is an easy and comfortable place to live.

Blue road

20 years ago, the Seyhan River in Adana used to dry up into a stinking, muddy stream in the summer. Today, the river has been dammed in and is a beautiful blue artery down the middle of the city surrounded by greenery. Tens of thousands of people come here to walk. After a long absence, I returned to Adana in October 2000 and April 2002 and took a huge number of photos. When I put the photographs next to each other, Adana suddenly looked like an elegant coastal town. Sadly, the reality is that Old Adana still has pockets of poverty that feel a world away from New Adana.

"Love Island"

In the middle of Seyhun Dam Lake is a small island with a neon sign blinking "Love Island". A larger island linked to the shore was known as the "American Island". Dozens of cars were parked on it, filled with rowdy groups of friends or quiet couples. American Island seemed a lot less conservative than the "mainland". Suddenly, the peninsula's name made sense. The status of women is also another sign of how developed a city or nation is. Here, I was surrounded by proud, carefree young women out jogging. I wandered among students, lovers, old ladies and villagers sharing the streets.

Sailing in Adana

As I grew enamoured with the city, I suddenly came across a group of sailboats on the lake. It turns out that Adana even has a yacht and water sports club! Of course, Adana has amazing food-kebabs in particular. However, I wasn't prepared for the elegance of the restaurants. We went to a seafood restaurant near the shore and were served by a young waitress. Some of the mezes were local specialities, but the predominant feeling was western. Adana seems to be becoming a more civilised, urbanised place to live. 20 years ago, a study revealed that people did not want to live outside the three main cities of Istanbul, Ankara and Izmir. Today, life in New Adana is perhaps even more civilised than life in Istanbul.

How to get there

THY: 5 flights daily. Tel: 444 0849.

Adana Hotel

Adana HiltonSA: opened 2001. www.hilton.com. Tel: +90 322-355 50 00. Surmeli Cukurova: 5 star. Tel: +90 322 352 36 00. www.surmelihotels.com Hotel Seyhan: 5 star. Kebab restaurant. Tel: +90 322-457 58 10 www.otelseyhan.com.tr Zaimoglu Hotel: 4 star. Tel:+90 322-363 53 53 www.zaimoglu.com.tr Mavi Surmeli Hotel: Conference hotel. Tel: +90 322 363 34 37 www.mavisurmeli.com

Where to eat

The Terrace Restaurant: Ottoman and international cuisine. Address: Yeni Baraj Mah. 32 Sokak, Damla Sitesi A Blok No:6. Tel: 0322-226 03 43. Onbasılar: 50-year-old meat restaurant. Address: Ataturk Caddesi Özel Sancak İshanı Asma kat:5. Tel: 0322-363 21 24. Sercan Restaurant: Meat and fish. Address: Guzelyali Mah. Kenan Evren Bulvari, Armagan Sitesi A Blok, 6. Tel: 0322-235 79 49.

Helpful hints

* Visit the Regional Archaeology Museum, Ethnographic Museum, Bebekli Church, Tepebasi and old Adana houses.
* Kebabs are hot or plain. Try ''salgam'' (turnip) juice.riz. Adana'da siparis verirken sadece ''Acili'' ya da ''Acisİz'' deyin. Ve Salgam suyu icmeden dönmeyin. at 23.30