A piece of heaven: Antigua

The Caribbean island of Antigua is a veritable heaven on earth with 365 beaches. It also boats a rich history, spicy cuisine and plenty of water sports.

Nowhere in the world is there such a variety of seafood. The Blue Waters Hotel in the north has a great location, perfect service, luxurious rooms and serves Caribbean fare. The Rock Cottage Villa adjacent to the hotel has 5 bedrooms. It is surrounded by water on 3 sides and has a Jacuzzi, pool and a barbeque area. Plus, you can enjoy a meal cooked by a personal chef. www.bluewaters.net

1100-year-old temple

Made up of over 13,000 islands, Indonesia is the largest archipelago in the world. The temple of Borobudur is located in the middle of the main island of Java. This massive Buddhist temple dates back to 842. Although it may not be one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, it is a truly wondrous sight. The temple is set on a small natural rise and is shaped like a ziggurat with a rectangular base. The temple has 10 levels-each level representing a stage in the process of reaching nirvana. Originally, the temple was painted with garish colours that would have made its carved figures seem even more vibrant. Nevertheless, it remains deeply moving and beautiful, albeit in its rather faded glory. The best time (though also the most crowded) to visit is at sunrise and sunset.

See www.baliintaran.com.

Climbing up to heaven

50 years have passed since the first ascent of Mount Everest. Today, there are an average of 50 successful ascents every year. As a result, Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is an important centre for mountain climbers, trekkers and tourists alike. The city has hundreds of hotels including a Hilton, a Sheraton and Hyatt among others. However, one hotel manages to offer luxury and warmth at a reasonable price: Dwarika?s, built by Dwarika Das Shrestna. Dwarika Das collected wood carvings that were discarded from old buildings in the 1950s and 1960s and used them in the columns and windows of the hotel that he opened in 1970. Dwarika?s is currently run by his wife and daughter. The building feels more like a museum than a hotel. At Krishnarpan and Toran?the hotel?s two restaurants?you can enjoy European and Nepalese fare prepared using fresh ingredients from the Kathmandu valley. There are four different massages options on offer to sooth your weary body after a hard climb or an equally hard day?s shopping. Dwarika?s has 74 rooms--large enough to offer all the amenities and services of a major hotel and yet small enough to allow the personalised and caring service of a small hotel.

For more information: Dwarika?s Hotel, Battisputali, Kathmandu. www.dwarikas.com

October in the Mediterranean

In 1332, a traveller from Tangiers called İbni Batuta described the city of Alanya in his travelogue. He extolled the beauty of its weather, its people, its costumes and its cuisine. Although 700 years have passed, his vivid praise of the city still rings true. Only its name has changed from Korakesion as it was called in Strabon's "Geography" to Alaniyye or Alaiye after the Seljuk Sultan Alaettin Keykubad who took the city in 1221.

Beaches with Blue Flags

In the past, Alanya was important enough to be the winter capital of the Seljuks. Today, it is a major tourism capital. With its clean blue flag-bearing water and its pristine beaches, it is a pleasure to swim anywhere in Alanya. The best beach is perhaps golden Damlatas beach while İncekum and Ulaş are also lovely. Escape the hottest hours by taking a trip to the cool and atmospheric Damlataş and Dim Caves.The Damlataş Cave was found by accident in 1948 and is said to be good for people suffering from asthma. The Dim Cave located 12km from Alanya is 350m long and filled with stalactites and stalagmites. The Dim Creek in the valley below the cave is lined with fish restaurants where you can enjoy the flavour of fresh trout. You should also visit the Alanya Fort and Kizil Tower, especially at sunset. The Alanya fort has been around since the days of Korakesion. Its finishing touches were made by the Seljuks. The 33m high Kizil Tower is the symbol of the city and was also built by the Seljuks in 1226.

Alanya's streets are wide and well kempt. It even boasts bicycle paths. Thanks to the strict Alanya municipality, you won't be bothered by hecklers touting their wares. You should also head to the Alanya Archaeological Museum, in particular to see the broze statue of Hercules. The museum also carries Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman works. Now that the oppressive heat of summer has passed, this is an ideal time to experience the calm, quiet and peace of Alanya.

Triathlon in Alanya

The 12th International Alanya Triathlon will be held on October 23rd. See www.triathlon.org.tr.How to get thereDirect buses from all major cities. You can also come via Antalya. Antalya-Alanya by road takes 2 hours. Alanya Bus Station: 0242-513 26 50. You can also fly from Antalya. Call THY: 444 0849.

Alanya Hotel

Kleopatra Beach Hotels: 22 hotels on the Kleopatra Beach. www.kleopatrabeachhotels.com Grand Kaptan Hotel (5*): In the city centre. Tel: +90242-514 01 01 www.kaptanhotels.com Club Paradiso Hotel & Resort (5*): 7km from Alanya. Tel: +90242-51822 01 www.club-paradiso.com Panorama Hotel (4*): In the city centre. Tel: +90 242- 513 11 81 . www.panoramahotel.com.tr Krizantem Hotel (3*): Central and on the shore. Tel: +90 242-514 06 68. www.krizantemhotel.com Gortur Beach Hotel (2*): Central with private beach.

Where to eat

Ottoman House: 100 year old Alanya house. Garden, live music, Turkish food. Address: Damlatas Cad.No: 31. Tel: 0242-511 14 21. Kaptan's Filika Restaurant: Italian and Med fare on Damlatas beach. Tel: 0242-513 10 94-513 49 00. Green Beach Restaurant: Seafood on Kleopatra beach. Tel: 0242 512 54 89. Jozef's Platz: Meat and fish with salad. Tel: 0242 513 92 96. Address: Muftuler Cad. Demir Sok. No:5/A. Mahperi: Established 194. Seafood. Tel: 0242-512 54 91. E-mail:info@mahperi.com

Helpful hints

* Try the 100% natural Bamyaci icecreams. İskele Cad. No: 88.

* Alanya is famed for its accessories made from gourds. Buy some as gifts.

* Silk shawls are a traditional Alanya craft. You can buy shawls and gourds on the road to the fortress.

* See the municipal website for more information. www.alanya.cc

* You can take day trips to the Manavgat Waterfall and to the Alara Fort.

* The Alanya Archaeological Museum is open daily from 09.00-12.00/13.30-18.30. Tel: 0242-513 12 28.

Blowin' in the wind!

Half an hour's drive from izmir on the ceşme highway lies Alacati, a favourite spot with local and foreign tourists. With its cobblestone streets, well-preserved stone houses, amazing beach and sea, this is a quiet holiday haven. in the 1923 population exchange, the Greeks who lived here departed but were replaced by Turks of Greek origin, who make up most of the current population. There are also many people who have fled the big cities to settle here.

The geography of the shore and the year-round winds that are ideal for windsurfing make Alacati one of the world's greatest windsurfing centres. The windsurfing schools here are popular mainly with foreign tourists. One of these is 'Planet Windsurfing' which has 12 branches worldwide. Alacati is perfect for beginners with sea and wind conditions ideal for windsurfing 300 days a year and shallow waters up to 400 metres off the shore. Planet Windsurfing Alacati is specially featured in their brochure. Engin Kalafatoğlu has run a windsurfing school here for many years. His website is a good resource for windsurfers and features news and information about windsurfing and about Alacati. "Surf&Action Center" is another school, run by Thomas Mitbrod who says that Alacati is a favourite spot with foreign windsurfers.

Beginners receive training at these schools, but advanced windsurfers benefit from the schools' equipment and facilities as well. if you don't want to join in, it is a pleasure to watch the colourful sails of the windsurfers in the coves where the schools are located.With its sparkling waters, golden beach and historical atmosphere, this cove on the ceşme peninsula is an ideal location for windsurfing enthusiasts. Bear in mind that the wind and weather conditions in Alacati are ideal in September and October, the best time for holidaying here.if you happen to find yourself in Alacati, notice the sign reading 'Alacati Windsurfing Paradise' on the peaks across from the beach. You will no doubt agree with the sentiment!

Windsurfing schools in Alacati:

Surf&Action Center: e-mail:alacati@surf-action-centers.com Tel: 0232-716 88 16 Engin Kalafatoğlu: www.alacati.com e-mail:windsurfing@alacati.com Planet Windsurfing: www.planetwindsurf.co e-mail: info@planetwindsurf.com

Useful tips on carpets

A carpet is one of the most significant home furnishings. Buying a carpet is not a decision to be taken lightly as they do not come cheap and are something you will live with for years to come. The carpet merchant will most likely provide you with information, but it helps to have a bit of knowledge as a guideline to make sure that you agree with what you are told. Knowing things such as what the carpet is made of, basic characteristics, varieties, care, techniques, designs, the regions where they are made, age and how to bargain are your guarantee to taking your carpet home feeling certain that you have done the right thing. So, come with us on a magic carpet ride!

Turkish carpets

The earliest known knotted woven examples were uncovered in southern Siberia at a site called Pazırık in the Altay Mts. and date back about 2,500 years. As for Anatolia, there are some surviving examples of Seljuk carpets dating back to the 13th century. They were produced in centers such as Konya, Kayseri and Sivas with principal colors as blue, red, yellow, green and white with stylized vegetation and geometric designs. Today, one can see a depiction of these Anatolian carpets, which were exported to Italy, in a fresco in the Arena Chapel in Padua by Giotto (1266-1337). Classic Ottoman Usak carpets had become quite the fashion by the 16th century. These were woolen carpets made with Gördes knots and designed by imperial decorators. Later on, the Hereke carpet period began with state incentives.

1001 types of carpet

There are four types of Turkish carpet: "wool-on-wool" (100% wool); "wool-on-cotton," in which the wefts and plaits are cotton and the knots are wool; "all silk" (100% silk); and finally "floss silks," which are those with cotton wefts and plaits with mercerized knots over them. Tourists are attracted to their sheen and mistake the cotton for silk. Want to know the difference between Turkish and Persian rugs? The former is made with double knots called "Gördes" which maintain their shape much better than the latter, which are made with single knots called "sine." There are weaving techniques called "kilim," "halı," "sumak," and "cicim" all of which have a unique appearance and beauty. For instance, a sumak is a kilim with an extra needlework design worked into it using the wrapping technique. Moreover, there are "Suzani" carpets, which have been imported from various Central Asian countries in recent years.

Hereke finery

Silk carpets are divided into two styles, those made in Kayseri and those made in Hereke. The latter is woven with 100 knots per square centimeter. It has the highest number of knots per square centimeter of any material. Herekes are the ultimate luxury. Actually, Herekes start from 100 (10 x 10) double knots and go up to 25 x 25. A 47 cm. carpet with 256 knots per square centimeter has 1,200,000 knots and takes more than a year to make. A one meter-square carpet has more than twice as many knots. The price of a 25 x 25 Hereke carpet of more than one square meter is no less than $30,000, simply because it takes a young lady 3-4 years to make. Also, the difference between Chinese silk and Turkish silk is that the latter does not lose its shape when washed.

Why an old carpet

The reason why old carpets are so valued even if they are worn-out and pricey is because they incorporate hand-spun yarn and natural dyes. Some carpets are still produced in this manner: price depends on the quality of the materials and if old techniques were used. Not all shops sell old carpets as repairs are pricey and one has to constantly wander about Anatolia to maintain an ample supply.

Usak carpets are still the fashion

You will not encounter Usaks in all shops as they take up a lot of space. Their knots are generally large and have no relation to those found with Herekes. As they are quite decorative, Usak carpets have been in fashion for the past 10-15 years. Some carpet makers even copy designs of old Usak carpets and sell the copies for $500-600 per square meter.

The finer points of carpet shopping

Here are four points which make the difference in whether you pay too much or you get a fair deal on your carpet: 1) Quality, that is, the number of knots 2) Quality of the wool (hand- or machine-spun) 3) Natural or synthetic dyes 4) Age. Moreover, carpets over a certain age must receive approval from a museum and are not to be carried out of the country, but instead are mailed to the buyer.

How should a carpet be cared for

This is a crucial point: do not wipe down a handmade carpet with a wet rag, but have it washed at a specialist instead. If your home has proper ventilation, this eliminates a potential moth problem and keeps your carpet in an airy environment.

The living drink: Boza

"Boozaaa.... Haydi bozaaa... Boza". The call of the itinerant boza vendor advertising his wares on the streets is a sure sign that winter is here. Still, the very best place for boza is Vefa Bozaci, established in 1876 by Haci Sadik Bey, an Albanian immigrant. He reinvented boza, then a watery and sour drink, into the thick, fermented drink we know today. Today, it is run by his grandson, Sadik Vefa. Since 1876, its décor and its recipe for boza remain unchanged. One famous frequenter was Ataturk. The glass he drank from on January 4, 1937 is on display. Boza has existed for 9000 years. Its main ingredient is wheat berries, which are boiled in water to a thick consistency. It is cooled, drained, sugar and special yeast are added and left to ferment. When it begins to bubble, it is ready to sell.

Notes for Boza fans

Boza has loads of vitamins A1, B1, and B2. It aids digestion and helps pregnant women to produce milk. It has no fat. You should consume it in 4-5 days and keep it at 12-18 degrees. Put it on your balcony-not in the fridge. Boza is sold from October-March. Vefa Bozaci is also famous for its vinegar and lemon sauce. You can buy their boza and vinegar from their store or from supermarkets. Vefa Bozaci also has a stand on Ramazan Sokak in Sultanahmet. In the summer, try their sira, ice cream and lemonade. See www.vefa.com.tr Address: Katip Celebi Cad. No:104/1, Vefa.

Sweet inheritance

Whether you are a baklava-fan or not, you must admit that it is a difficult dish to make. To be a baklava-maker, you have to be strong, speedy and prepared to work late at night. Nejat Gullu, the owner of Gulluoğlu-the leading brand of baklava-is just such a baklava-crazed person. His great-grandfather Gullu Çelebi established the company in 1871 when he brought the desert he had seen in Damascus to Gaziantep. His grandson created baklava as we know it today-layers and layers of thin pastry. In 1949, Nejat Gullu's father Mustafa Gullu brought baklava to Istanbul. In 2001, Nejat Gullu opened a factory that now exports to England, Holland, the US, Germany and Greece among others. Gullu's latest plan is franchising.

What are some of the innovations in your factory?

It is 700m2. The first floor manufactures Turkish Delight, the other baklava and 'su börek'. We also have the world's only baklava lab! We have made some revolutionary innovations like cutting the baklava and sprinkling the pistachios automatically. We hope to get a HACCP certification soon. The HACCP certifies that that the critical points of food production are done correctly. We have zero room for error. We make sure that the pastry is thin and the pistachios are evenly distributed.

Why is baklava so difficult to make?

It is hard to get the pastry so thin. You have to adjust the sugar and dough according to the weather. We follow the weather carefully. The process can never be fully automated. Technology cannot make thin pastry! Our pastry is 10 microns thick. It takes human strength to do this. You have to spread the pistachio very evenly. The worst part of it is that we work all night!

Do you work at night as well?

I came to work at midnight for nearly 50 years. Now I've passed the baton to my son Fatih. We have to have a manager overseeing the work to make sure it goes perfectly. If just one worker makes a mistake, it ruins the whole chain.

Are you living your childhood dream?

I always dreamed of running a place like this. Now I do.

You are going to produce frozen baklava?

That's correct. We export vacuum-packed baklava. But it is not as fresh as ready-baked baklava. We want to set up franchises around the world. Our cold air warehouse will open in March. Our first franchise might open in Dubai. www.gulluoglu.com

An exquisite taste for all seasons

Have you ever tasted marzipan? Marzipan is an experience you wish will never end while it slowly dissolves in your mouth. This is especially true if you have bought it from the original shop in Bebek. Its owner, Sevim İsguder runs the business she inherited from her father Mehmet 44 years ago, who in turn took over from his father. The shop was registered in Istanbul Commerce Registry in 1904, but papers documenting its earlier history were lost in a fire. Sevim's grandfather started up the business in Mudanya, Bursa and sent her father to Istanbul for his education. He married his high-school sweetheart Anastasia of Greek origin.

Called as "Madame's daughters" by the old customers, Sema stays at the cashier and her younger sister Sevim controls the production. There are no artificial preservatives in their product. The main ingredient, almonds are brought in from Diyarbakir, Mardin, Midyat and Elazig. Almonds imported from Afghanistan or Iran are of no use as the oil content is not enough for making marzipan. Sevim says, "Marzipan is my spouse, lover, child. I grew up shelling almonds and peanuts and had to dispel my dreams of becoming an artist, but I am happy. I had plenty of offers to open shops in Ankara, İzmir, and on the Asian side of Istanbul, but I didn't take them up. One can only make so much handmade marzipan and it loses its essence once machinery enters the picture."

The Bebek Marzipan Shop works in the following way for its uncompromising quality. Almonds are shelled and dried in low heat and finely grated. A bit of water is added for consistency and then the mixture is beaten in a mortar with a special marble pestle that has been passed down through the generations. The paste is put on a marble counter and kneaded. It is then shaped into long slivers cut into bite-sized morsels and placed in boxes. It is your task to devour them with relish. You can find the Bebek Marzipan Shop in the Louis Vuitton City Guide, which encompasses 33 countries around the world.

For orders: Cevdet Pasa Caddesi 238/1 Bebek-IstanbulPhone: 0212-263 59 84

Tobacco smoke rising through hookah pipes...

After nearly disappearing into obscurity, the hookah pipe has regained its esteem as a part of the heritage of Ottoman culture. It is not known exactly where in the Middle East the pastime emerged but it certainly holds a proud place in this culture. Hookah pipe smokers used to meet in a cafe and talk for hours with the pipe close at hand. The practice has its own etiquette in that the special tobacco is wrapped with care, and the smoke which fills the bottle is inhaled slowly, but not as deeply as if one were smoking a cigarette. Refresh the coals and this smoking pleasure lasts for hours. There are not as many hookah pipe cafes as there used to be in İstanbul as people no longer have enough time for this pastime.

Young people rediscover the hookah...

Thanks to a variety of flavored tobacco, university students in particular have awakened to the smoking pleasure of the hookah pipe in recent years. It is because of this tobacco, flavored with such tastes as apple, apricot, strawberry and cappucino, that some new venues have opened around town to bolster the trade existing at the few old hookah cafes. What was once a masculine tradition is now changing as women are imbibing in the hookah, too. A plastic mouthpiece called a "sipsi" fits over the end of the tube. This allows everyone to affix their own mouthpiece as the tube is passed around.

Tourists enjoy the hookah pipe

Tourists have always shown interest in the hookah pipe as it allows them to experience the ways of the Orient. According to the owner of Corlulu Ali Pasa, foreigners drop by here on a regular basis while staying in İstanbul to smoke from the pipe and take the pastime further by purchasing a hookah pipe to take with them back to their country.

Hookah pipes can be smoked at home. But it doesn't have the same taste if you are smoking alone because the prerequisite of the hookah is lively banter. Many hookah pipe addicts leave their own pipes at their favorite cafes to come sit in front of for a spell.

Hookah pipe cafes

Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi

This medrese (school of theology) in Beyazit is one of the oldest hookah venues and is the choice of elder hookah patrons as well as students and tourists. The veranda under the plane tree is the perfect place for an extended smoke during the summer.

Rembetiko

You can find all types of hookah at this venue, which has a garden. It is one of the first of its sort on the Asian side.

Tophane cafes

There are a number of hookah cafes which have opened next to each other in the Sali Pazari neighborhood of Tophane. Despite their modern appearance, it is possible to breath in some of the mystic air from the adjacent Nusretiye Mosque.

Kasimpasa Cafe

In order to promote his place, the owner of Kasımpaşa Cafe, Salim Usta loaded up a truckload of hookah pipes and went to President Clinton's hotel during his last visit to Turkey and served the entire White House Security team.

Helpful hints

* Hookah tobacco is grown in the province of Hatay and is harsher in comparison to flavored tobacco.

* The mouthpiece which fits over the end of the tube is interchangeable. This allows everyone to affix their own mouthpiece as the tube is passed around.

* The finest hookah pipes originate in Iran. They are also made in İstanbul and İzmir.

* Oak chips are used for coals in keeping the hookah pipe lit.

* The most unusual tube mouthpieces are made from amber.

* Hookah pipes are sold at the Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi.

Copper in Anatolia

The evidence that has come to light in recent archaeological excavations prove that mining started 10,000 years ago in Cayonu ın Anatolia. However, the fırst refining processes are thought to have taken place in Catalhoyuk in the 7th century B.C.

Anatolia: The birthplace of metallurgy

Metallurgy in its true sense began with the smelting of copper. For that reason the history of copper can be accepted as the history of metallurgy. Beating techniques are the oldest in the history of metallurgy. The earth of Anatolia has rich lodes of ore. According to research, there are close to 500 rich copper seams in Anatolia. Many of these have been worked since antiquity.

Extraordinary workmanship

We know that sophisticated metal workshops which used various techniques existed in Anatolia in the Roman and Byzantine era from the large number of objects that have survived. We witness that the Islamic art of metalworking started a significant development during the Seljuk period. It is accepted that the Seljuks brought an important innovation to the Islamic art of metalwork through their use of brass alloys. Each one of the objects attributed to the Seljuks shows an extraordinary degree of artistry and workmanship. The Near Eastern market for blue and white Chinese porcelain which started to gain popularity from the middle of the 14th century caused the Islamic art of metalworking. to stagnate and regress. But immediately after the formation of the Ottoman Empire, the copper mines in Anatolia and the Balkans were worked heavily and as a result of this metalwork reached a peak during the Ottoman period. During the Ottoman Empire, because copper was used for weaponry, coining money and everyday utensils, metal workshops were used widely and the mines were worked continuously until the middle of the 19th century.

Almost all of the copper objects produced during the Ottoman period are works of great artistry and craftsmanship, displaying a rich variety of form and ornamentation that reflects local traditions of different areas in the Balkans and Anatolia. Among the best known centers of metalworking are Ustovo, Petkovo, Scopia, Piristina, and Sarajevo in the Balkans and Gaziantep, Kahramanmaraş, Mardın, Diyarbakır, Siirt, Malatya,Elazığ, Erzurum,Trabzon, Giresun, Ordu, Sivas,Tokat, Kayseri, Çankırı, Çorum, Amasya, Kastamonu, Gerede, Konya, Burdur, Denizli, Muğla, Kavaklıdere, Afyon, Kütahya, Balıkesir, Bursa , Istanbul and Edirne in Turkey. These centers are among those in which traditional metal workshops have operated successfully using a variety of techniques since the Ottoman period.

Decorative copper pieces

Copper kitchen utensils maintained their popularity until the emergence of cheaper alternatives such as aluminum and plastic in the 1950s. But the traditional art of copperwork has survived by emphasizing decorative pieces rather than cooking utensils. The pots that were banished from our kitchens 50 years ago now decorate our living rooms and dining rooms.Ornamental copper objects are popular export goods and are used to serve meals in large touristic hotels. This has given birth to a new sector that has preserved the ancient art of copperworking. Today, there still are hundreds of copper workshops in Istanbul and throughout Anatolia.

The three graces of the Aegean

In his famous writings, Herodotus describes the unparalleled beauties of Ionia. He waxes lyrical about its gorgeous sky and matchless climate. Today, the region once known as Ionia covers the area from Izmir Foca to Aydın Soke. It is just as stunning now as it was in ancient times. Perhaps the most beautiful ancient settlement on the western shore of Anatolia is Priene. Located at the foot of the Samsun (Mykale) Mountain, the city has a spectacular view of the Meander Delta and the Aegean Sea.

Rich as Croesus

Although Priene was a small city, it played an important role in the Ionian League. Firstly, it was home to Panionion, the annual religious meeting place of the league. Secondly, Bias-one of the seven sages of antiquity-came from Priene. Bias is most celebrated for saying that "Wisdom should be cherished as a means of travelling from youth to old age, for it is more lasting than any other possession". Bias also features in a legend about King Croeses. Having extorted regular payments from the Ionian cities on the mainland, Croesus decided to deploy warships against the Ionian islands. Bias misled Croesus into believing that the Ionians were preparing 10,000 horses for a raid on Sardis. Croesus was pleased since the Lydians would probably triumph in a land battle. Bias astutely pointed out that the Ionians were superior fighters by sea, and would thus triumph if the Lydians attacked with their warships. Croesus was so impressed by Bias?s logic that he gave up the idea of attacking the islands.

Fate dictated by water

When it was established in 350BC, Priene was on the shore of the Aegean and near to the islands, making it an ideal centre of trade. However, the shore was gradually silted up by alluvium carried by the Meander River. By the 13th century, the city was deserted. Priene was designed by the renowned city planner Hippodamos on a grid pattern. The Temple of Athena with its restored columns is still an imposing structure, acting as a doorway between the Samsun Mountain behind it and the infinite vista of the sea stretching out in front. The requisite amphitheatre was built in the 3rd century BC and seated 5000 people. The front row has 5 seats that were reserved for the leading figures of the city. Plus, there is an altar where sacrifices were made to Dionysus-god of wine and theatre-before a performance. The square holes were used to hold up tents that protected the audience from the rain or beating sun.

How to get there

Take the Izmir, Selcuk,Soke road. After Soke, turn at the Priene sign. Priene is 25km away. Doganbey and Karine are 10km apart up the same road. Minibuses from Soke go to Gullubahce, near Priene. No public transport to Doganbey and Karine.

Where to stay

Gullubahce has a few pensions, but there are many options in Selcuk, Soke, Didim and Akbuk--near enough for a day trip.

Where to eat

Try the Karine Shore Restaurant. Hakan Bingol. 0533 312 99 47-0535 480 79 64.

Centuries of fire: glazed earthenware

According to some researchers, the art of Anatolian ceramics began in 1071, the date the Turks began to move into Anatolia. The developmental period of ceramics in Anatolia dates from the Seljuk Empire. Yet, ceramics cannot be considered as an art form on its own; nor can it be attributed to a single civilization. The history of ceramics stretches back to the earliest civilizations; the oldest pieces of pottery in history, dating to nearly 9000 years back, were found at Çatalhöyük in Central Anatolia.

Anatolian ceramics are generally divided into three phrases: Central Asia, the Seljuk and Beylik era and the Ottoman period. Central Asian ceramics display motifs based on eagle claws, swan crests, bird beaks and animal ears. During the Seljuk and Beylik period, blue-white and turquoise-blue motifs were used in geometric designs. The best examples of Seljuk mosaic tiles can be seen in Konya in the Alaaddin Mosque, Sırcalı Medrese and Karatay Medrese.

Iznik: The best examples of Ottoman ceramics

The origin of İznik ceramics coincides with the end of Byzantium and the early days of the Ottoman Empire. The art of İznik ceramics reached an apogee in the middle of the 16th century . Today, İznik ceramic pieces are highly sought after by collectors and command high prices at international art auctions.The most splendid and original examples of İznik ceramics are to be found in Istanbul in Süleymaniye Mosque, the mausoleums of Süleyman the Magnificent and Hürrem Sultan and the various sections of Topkapı Palace; in Bursa in the Green Mosque, Green Mausoleum and Muradiye Mosque; and in Edirne in the Muradiye Mosque.

Kutahya ceramics

A decorative style that repeats abstract motifs inspired by traditional textiles is characteristic of Kütahya ceramics. The best examples of 18th century Kutahya ceramics can be seen in the Hisarbey Mosque in Kutahya. Kutahya panels were also used in Ulucami in Bursa, Beylerbeyi Mosque in Istanbul and Cinili Mosque in Uskudar. The famed Blue Mosque displays both İznik and Kutahya tiles.Today, ceramic production continues in both İznik and Kütahya, mainly in small ateliers using modern equipment. But there are still a few workshops that make ceramics using traditional methods.

A new coast town

Think of Adana, and you'll probably think of spicy kebabs, hot weather and fiery-tempered feudal Agas. However, my image of Adana has been changed forever. During my trip, I even saw 40-something lady joggers out at 7 am. To the north of the old city, a region known as New Adana has sprung up. It is extremely modern and comfortable. People of all ages are out wandering the parks and promenades, proving that Adana is an easy and comfortable place to live.

Blue road

20 years ago, the Seyhan River in Adana used to dry up into a stinking, muddy stream in the summer. Today, the river has been dammed in and is a beautiful blue artery down the middle of the city surrounded by greenery. Tens of thousands of people come here to walk. After a long absence, I returned to Adana in October 2000 and April 2002 and took a huge number of photos. When I put the photographs next to each other, Adana suddenly looked like an elegant coastal town. Sadly, the reality is that Old Adana still has pockets of poverty that feel a world away from New Adana.

"Love Island"

In the middle of Seyhun Dam Lake is a small island with a neon sign blinking "Love Island". A larger island linked to the shore was known as the "American Island". Dozens of cars were parked on it, filled with rowdy groups of friends or quiet couples. American Island seemed a lot less conservative than the "mainland". Suddenly, the peninsula's name made sense. The status of women is also another sign of how developed a city or nation is. Here, I was surrounded by proud, carefree young women out jogging. I wandered among students, lovers, old ladies and villagers sharing the streets.

Sailing in Adana

As I grew enamoured with the city, I suddenly came across a group of sailboats on the lake. It turns out that Adana even has a yacht and water sports club! Of course, Adana has amazing food-kebabs in particular. However, I wasn't prepared for the elegance of the restaurants. We went to a seafood restaurant near the shore and were served by a young waitress. Some of the mezes were local specialities, but the predominant feeling was western. Adana seems to be becoming a more civilised, urbanised place to live. 20 years ago, a study revealed that people did not want to live outside the three main cities of Istanbul, Ankara and Izmir. Today, life in New Adana is perhaps even more civilised than life in Istanbul.

How to get there

THY: 5 flights daily. Tel: 444 0849.

Adana Hotel

Adana HiltonSA: opened 2001. www.hilton.com. Tel: +90 322-355 50 00. Surmeli Cukurova: 5 star. Tel: +90 322 352 36 00. www.surmelihotels.com Hotel Seyhan: 5 star. Kebab restaurant. Tel: +90 322-457 58 10 www.otelseyhan.com.tr Zaimoglu Hotel: 4 star. Tel:+90 322-363 53 53 www.zaimoglu.com.tr Mavi Surmeli Hotel: Conference hotel. Tel: +90 322 363 34 37 www.mavisurmeli.com

Where to eat

The Terrace Restaurant: Ottoman and international cuisine. Address: Yeni Baraj Mah. 32 Sokak, Damla Sitesi A Blok No:6. Tel: 0322-226 03 43. Onbasılar: 50-year-old meat restaurant. Address: Ataturk Caddesi Özel Sancak İshanı Asma kat:5. Tel: 0322-363 21 24. Sercan Restaurant: Meat and fish. Address: Guzelyali Mah. Kenan Evren Bulvari, Armagan Sitesi A Blok, 6. Tel: 0322-235 79 49.

Helpful hints

* Visit the Regional Archaeology Museum, Ethnographic Museum, Bebekli Church, Tepebasi and old Adana houses.
* Kebabs are hot or plain. Try ''salgam'' (turnip) juice.riz. Adana'da siparis verirken sadece ''Acili'' ya da ''Acisİz'' deyin. Ve Salgam suyu icmeden dönmeyin. at 23.30