Traditional decorations

The mosque we are in is filled with scaffolding. Dozens of restorers stand craning their necks to the ceiling. They have finished restoring the painted decorations on the dome. But what are they actually doing? "Kalemisi" has no direct translation but can be described as a painted decorative technique done on plaster, wood, stone, marble, leather and fabric.

Turkish "kalemisi" began in the 11th century when the Seljuks took Anatolia. Fatih Sultan Mehmet later established a decorative workshop. Many styles appeared over hundreds of years. The best "kalemisi" comes from the classical period in the 16th century.

From father to son

Semih İrtes is a modern "kalemkar". He and his brothers Adnan and Hayrettin learned the skill from their father. He in turn learned from the then master of the craft. Semih İrtes describes the technique of "kalemisi". First, they decide what designs will go where. Then, the designs are drawn onto draft paper. A model of the design is marked onto a soft material using pins pushed through the draft paper. Special coal dust is sprinkled onto the draft paper marking a stencil pattern onto the wall. It is much easier to work on lower surfaces than on ceilings and domes. Semih İrtes explains that the same technique is used as was in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. Then, the designs are painted with earth or oxide paints using different brushes. "Kalemisi" on wood has a slightly different technique. First, wood that is resistant to humidity and insects is chosen. The paint is specially prepared. The motifs are embossed onto the wood and covered with gold leaf.

From Ashkabat to Tokyo

Semih İrtes has restored much of the "kalemisi" in the Topkapi Palace including places in the Harem, the Baghdad Pavilion, the Divan-i Humayun, the Mecidiye Pavilion and the Revan Pavilion. Most recently, they worked on the restoration of the Treasury. "We have 450 restoration and new projects in Turkey, and many projects abroad," says Semih İrtes. "We restored the Ertugrul Gazi Mosque in Ashkabat and the Tokyo Mosque." This rewarding task has its difficulties, too. For example, there is the danger of falling from broken scaffolding.

For more information, see www.semihirtes.com.