The grave of a genius

Figueres is a fascinating Spanish town 1.5 hours from Barcelona by train. In the town centre stands the old theatre which survived the Spanish Civil War but burned down in 1939. Later, it was bought and redesigned by Salvador Dali who had held his first exhibition here when he was only 14 years old. In 1960, he decided to open it as a museum, despite opposition from the locals. Supported by the mayor Guardiola, it opened in 1974.

Walking across the grave of a genius

The main hall of the museum has a glass globe for a ceiling. The right hand wall is covered in a 420x317cm digitised picture of Abraham Lincoln. On closer inspection, the picture reveals a hidden nude figure looking out to sea. This is Gala-Dali's muse, guardian angel, lover and wife after 1958. In the centre of the red brick floor of the main hall lays a white marble slab. Many visitors to the museum nonchalantly walk across it. Few of them know that this is Dali's grave. Dali enjoyed shocking people when alive; in death, he seems to be having the last laugh with his incongruous grave.

Lip couches and a "Rainy Cadillac"

Upstairs is the Mae West Room. It has red walls, a red couch, two black&white photographs and a yellow triumphal arch. In the far right stands a staircase. At the top hangs a huge lens. Through it, you suddenly see the face of Mae West, the 30s film star. The arch is her hair, the couch her lips, the furniture her nose?From the ceiling, a complete bathroom with a bathtub, chair, chest of drawers and a book hangs upside down. In the centre of the interior courtyard stands a black 1940s Cadillac with a statue of a driver and passenger inside. Behind it is a column made of truck tires. If you insert 10 pesetas into a slot beside the car, you'll have the shock of your life. Let's just say that the name of the work is "Rainy Cadillac".

The pickings of the Bread Basket

Downstairs is a low-lit room lined with black curtains filled with the jewellery Dali designed for Gala. Behind a wall decorated with a cross and the words 'Salvador Dali Domeneci, Pubol Markisi, 1904-1989' lies the grave of Dali: a lifelong imperialist who never wore a watch yet was never late, who didn't believe in god but loved all people and who courted scandal. The museum also houses the painting that brought Dali fame at a young age: "The Bread Basket". Thanks to this work, Dali opened his first private exhibition in 1929 in Paris. He was invited to join the Surrealists until he was kicked out after a fight with its leader, Breton. Every work in this uniquely personal museum/mausoleum brings the visitor closer to appreciating the unique personality who created it.

Figueres Guide

Climate

The climate is typically Mediterranean. The weather is mild and bright throughout the year, and hot in the summer.

Visa

Spain requires a visa for Turkish citizens. Consulate in Istanbul Tel: 0212-270 74 10. Embassy in Ankara Tel: 0312-440 21 69.

Telephone codes

Spain 34. Figueres 972.

How to get there

The easiest way is to fly to Barcelona and then take a train. Trains leave from Barcelona for Figueres every hour. The 135km road takes about 2 hours. A return flight on THY leaving on Thursday (Saturday night compulsory) for 8-days costs 386 USD. A trip during the week covering at least three days costs 425 USD. Flights on Thursdays and Sundays at 09.45. THY: 4440849. Iberia flies daily to Barcelona at 15. 40. 386 USD return.

Where to stay

The nearest 5-star hotel is the Hotel Golf Peralade 10 minutes from the city . Tel: +34 972 538 830. www.gılfperalade.com. Some 3 star hotels in Figueres: Hotel Bon Retorn:*** Tel: +34 972 504 623 www.bonretorn.com Hotel Empordo:*** 3-star hotel famous for Catalan cooking. Tel: +34 972 500562. www.hotelempordo.com Hotel Pirineos: *** Tel. +34 972 50 03 12 - 972 50 03 16 www.hotelpirineospelegri.com

Where to eat

Figueres has its own special cuisine separate from Catalan or Spanish cooking. The produce comes from the local mountains, sea and nature. Fish is cooked in the simplest and most traditional way. Red sea bream, sargo and red mullet is grilled, baked or cooked in sauce, retaining its natural flavour. Meat ragout made with fruit, vegetables or mushrooms is also delicious. Try the local cuisine at the Bon Retorn or Empardo hotels. Antaviana: Catalan fare. Av. Pirineus, 2. Tel: 504 968. If you want to try tapas, head to Mary Fran. Pani 14. Tel: 511 444. www.figueres.net is a good source for hotels and restaurants.

What to drink

Although the region has long produced wines, wine bars and wine cellars have only appeared in recent years. These are ideal places to try the local wines.