THE CIRAGAN PALACE

The best sites along the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn had been reserved for the palaces and mansions of the sultans or important personalities. Most of these, however, have disappeared in time. One of these, the large Crragan Palace, burned down in 1910.

The palace, replacing an earlier wooden palace, had been built in 1871 for Sultan Abdula'ziz by court architect Serkis Balyan. The construction took four years and cost four million gold pieces.

The ceilings and the interior partitions were made of wood, the walls were covered by marble. The columns were superior examples of stonemasonry. The palace was lavishly decorated with rare carpets, gilded pieces and furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl.

Like other palaces on the shores of the Bosphorus, the Ciragan had been the venue of various important meetings. Its facades were decorated with colored marbles, it had monumental gates, and it was connected to the Yildiz Palace on the slopes behind it with a bridge.

On the landside it was surrounded by high walls. After remaining in ruins for many years, the palace has been renovated and turned into a 5-star seashore hotel with several new additions.

THE YILDIZ PALACE

This is a complex of pavilions and gardens scattered over a large area of hills and valleys overlooking the Bosphorus and surrounded by high walls. This second largest palace in Istanbul is now separated into various sections, each serving a different purpose. The 500,000 sq. m grove had always been reserved for the court, and the first mansion built here in the early 19th century was quickly followed by others. When Sultan Abdulhamid II, who was an overly suspicious person, decided that this palace offered better security, the complex soon developed into its present form.

During his thirty-three year reign, the sultan used this well-protected palace resembling a city within a city as his official quarters and harem. The different courtyards containing pavilions, pools, greenhouses, aviaries, workshops and servants' quarters were separated from each other by passageways and gates. There are two small and charming mosques situated outside the two main entrances.

The buildings that were allocated to the higher military academy have been vacated now. The facilities to the north are still used for military purposes, but the other sections have been assigned to the use of the Yildiz Technical University, the municipality, the Department of National Palaces, and the Institute for Research in the History of Islamic Arts and Cultures.

The large part of the palace gardens, some old pavilions and the famous porcelain workshops are open to the public in what is now called the Yildiz Park. The park is connected to the Ciragan Palace on the seashore with a bridge. The best-known building in the complex, the Sale (chalet) Pavilion, is reached through the park. The pavilion is an important museum with its well-kept gardens, its exterior architecture resembling Alpine hunting lodges, its rich decorations, valuable furniture, carpets, and large ceramic stoves.

The main entrance of the Yildiz Palace is up the hill from Besikta§. The Muayede Pavilion to the left of the entrance is now being renovated as a new museum. Also on the left side are the single-storied Qt Pavilion, where the guests of the sultan were accommodated, and the entrance to the harem. On the opposite side stood the offices of the military officers in charge, the Yaveran chambers. The greenhouse and the theater in the harem section are attractive examples of their kind.

The staff dining room to the right of the entrance was later used to exhibit weapons collections. Today exhibitions and concerts take place here.

The Yildiz Palace Museum and the Municipal Museum of Istanbul are also in this complex. The Palace museum was founded in 1994 and it occupies the former carpentry workshops. Carved and painted wooden artifacts, thrones, porcelain produced in the palace workshops, and other objects from the palace are exhibited here, while in the Municipal Museum next to it glass and porcelain wares, silverware, paintings depicting Istanbul and a rare 16th century oil lamp are on display.

Patagonia: Not a dream, a reality

Is Patagonia real, virtual, or mythical? Actually, it is the region of South America below Chile and Argentina. Its far most point, Ushuaia, is the tip of the world.

Magellan and Darwin

In 1520, Magellan explored South America and entered the South Sea via the straits later named after him. He named Patagonia after the Spanish word pata, meaning feet, as the natives wore large moccasins. The Pacific Ocean is so-called as it was pacifico (Spanish for calm) after his difficult journey. In 1831, Darwin came here on the Beagle and explored the region for five years. In Patagonia there is the Beagle Canal, the Cordillera Darwin and Fitz Roy Mountain.

You have to fly to Santiago, Chile or Buenos Aires, Argentina to get to Patagonia. We flew to Buenos Aires and then to Trelew, a city established by Welshmen who fled English oppression at the end of the 1700s. From Trelew, take the highway to Puerto Madryn and then explore Peninsula Waldes.

The island of the Little Prince

The Peninsula Waldes is home to seals, sea lions, elephant seals, whales, wild ostriches, Patagonia rabbits (maras), guanacos, llamas, alpacas and penguins. Bird Island to the north partially inspired Antoine de Sainte-Exupery's The Little Prince. Punto Tombo, two hours from Puerto Madryn, is a heaven for Magellan penguins.

The end of the earth

Fly from Trelew to Ushuaia to reach Tierro del Fuego. In Ushuaia, visit the Tierra del Fuego National Park and its museums. Tour Beagle Canal by sea bus, and see sea lions, cormorants and Jules Verne's lighthouse at the end of the world.Fly from Ushuaia to El Calafate. Visit the Perito Moreno Glacier in Glacier Park. Reach Chile's Torres del Paine National Park by a deserted road where you may see 'gauchos' (cowboy-shepherds). The park is home to the Torres and Cuernos of Paine (2600m high odd-shaped pieces of granite), 50-200m high valleys speckled with lakes, four large glaciers, and to 150 varieties of birds and 200 plant varieties.Southern Chile has hundreds of fjords, glacial lakes and islands. Two towns to visit are Puero Natales and Puerto Arenas on the Straits of Magellan. You can fly to Puerto Montt via Santiago and take a fjord tour by boat and visit San Rafael Glacier.

Patagonia Guide

Climate

Varies from north to south. Best at the end of November and February. Summer: 11 °C, Winter 4 °C.

Currency

The Argentine Peso. Official exchange rate 1 ARP=1 USD. Chilean Peso. Official exchange rate 1 USD=610 CLS or CH$. Dollars valid. Change money at "Casa de Cambio". Some credit cards accepted.

Visa

Turkish citizens do not need visas for either country.Phone Codes54 Argentina. 1 Buenos Aires. 56 Chile. 2 Santiago. Turkish GSM mobiles do not work in either country.

How to get there

Fly to Buenos Aires or Santiago via Frankfurt, London (Gatwick), Paris, Barcelona, Rome or Milan and then get a local flight.

Where to stay

Buenos Aires: Hotel Crown Plaza Panamericano: Carlos Pellegrini 551 Buenos Aires Tel: 00 54 11 43 485. Hotel Best Western Embassy Suites: Avenida Cordoba 860 Tel: 00 54 11 43221228. Santiago: Hotel Carrera: Teatinos 180, Santiago. Tel: 00 55 2 698 20 11 Hotel Plaza San Francisco: Avda. Bermardo O'Higgins 816 Santiaso. Tel: 00 56 2 639 38 32 Puerto Madryn: Hotel Peninsula de Valdes: Avda. Julia Roca 155 Tel: 00 54 2965 471292 Ushuaia: Hotel Del Glacier: Av. Luis Fernando Martial 2355 Tel: 00 54 2901 430640 El Calafate: Hotel Los Alamos: Gobernador Mayono 6 Bustillo Tel: 00 54 2902 491145 Torres Del Paine National Park: Hosteria Las Torres: Torres del Paine National Park S/N Tel: 00 56 61 411572. Hosteria Grey Hotel: Lautaro Navarro 1061 Tel: 00 56 61229512.

What to eat
Seafood and potato or corn-based dishes in Chile. Steak in Argentina. Empanada: Popular baked or fried pastry filled with mince (pino), cheese (queso), chicken, onions and sometimes hardboiled eggs. Sopa da Mariscos: Seafood soup. Centolla: King crab. Parrillada: Grilled meat, sometimes skewered, best with offal.

What to drink
Mate: Paraguay tea. Wine: Chilean wines. Pico Sour: Chile's national drink is brandy with lemon and sugar.

Chasing the wind at Dubrovnik Riviera

Home to 1200 islands, the Dalmatian Coast is a sailor's paradise. In August, we set sail from Marmaris to the Adriatic Sea.

Mali Ston, wine and cheese
Our first stop in Croatia was Mali Ston, about 60km from Dubrovnik. The waters of Mali Ston are very clean and ideal for oyster farming. The next day, we set sail for Cavtat. After the Great Wall of China, Cavtat has the world's second longest defensive walls. The region is famous for its sea salt and cottage wine industry. Our first stop on the Adriatic was the ACI Marina in Dubrovnik. Here, we stocked up on supplies for our journey. By a strange coincidence, we ran into an old friend of one of our shipmates. Based on his knowledge of the area, we decided to change our Adriatic course.

Maria's island

In the morning, we set sail at full speed. At about 15.00, we caught sight of the small island of Lopud. Back when Dubrovnik was an independent city-state, the aristocrats had their summer homes on Lopud. Lopud is one of the few islands to have a beach and is covered in trees. No motor vehicles are allowed on the island. We stopped here for a meal and were served by a cheerful waitress named Maria. For the rest of the trip, we renamed Lopud "Maria's Island" in her honour. We spent that and every subsequent evening sipping Lopud wine on deck. The next morning, we woke to discover that we had the bay to ourselves. We set sail for our next stop, Mljet. Two boisterous dolphins joined us for a part of the journey.

Turkish folk songs

The island of Mljet is a protected national park that has two saltwater lakes but no fresh water. The next day, we enjoyed a day of sailing before anchoring in Vera Luka Bay on the island of Korcula. Korcula boasts the cleanest waters of the coast. We all fell in love with the nearby island of Sipan. After two whole days on deck, we headed to the shore for dinner. The restaurants on both islands proved to be full, but we luckily discovered a tiny bakery that sold a local version of borek. It was run by an Albanian man in his seventies. Hearing us speak Turkish, he started to sing a half-remembered Turkish folk song. The next morning, we woke at dawn and went for a walk. The road was lined with fruit trees and we helped ourselves to grapes, peaches, apricots and figs on our way. The figs were particularly delicious. In the afternoon, we went for a swim to escape the baking heat. Sadly, the seabed was littered with old car tyres and empty bottles. Nevertheless, we were loath to leave Korcula. However, the time had come to return to Dubrovnik. Once there, we spent out last night on the ship and drank a toast to the beauties of the Dalmatian Coast.

Dubrovnik Riviera Guide

DUBROVNIK

Although it saw a lot of damage during the war, Dubrovnik is still an enchanting town surrounded by mountains, forests and the sea. There are four districts: Gruz, Babin Kuk, Lapad and the Old Town. The shores of Babin Kuk, Lapad, Boninovo, Pile and Ploce are lined with luxury hotels. Watch the sunset from the old fortress, go shopping in Placa-Stradun and wander through the torch-lit streets by night. The hotels fill up during the Summer Festival (July 10-August 25). Ferries to all islands leave from the Dubrovnik Gruz pier at least 3 times a day. Hotel Gruz: Gruz, Tel: +385 20 418-977. Hotel Grand Villa Argentina: Ploce, Tel: +385 20 440-555. www.hoteli-argentina.hr Hotel Excelsior: Ploce, Tel: +385 20 414-222, +385 20 353-353 www.hotel-excelsior.hr Dubrovnik President: Babin Kuk, Tel: +385 20 441-100. www.babinkuk.com Hotel Kompas: Babin Kuk,Tel: +385 20 352-000. www.hotel-kompas.hr. Orhan: Old Town, Od Tabakarije 1. Tel: +385 20 414- 183. Most restaurants serve Mediterranean fare. Try the "Black Risotto", "Lobster Salad", and "Dubrovnik Rozata" (crème caramel) and "Cevap Cici", a kind of meatball. Restaurant Konavoka: Vl. Stijepo-Miso Zvrko, Setaliste Kralja Zvonimira 38, Lapad. Tel: 20 435 105. Restaurant Wanda: Prijeko Street 8, 20 000, Old Town. Tel: 20 321 010. Restaurant Arka: Gunduliãeva poljana, Old Town. Restaurant/Cafe Levanat: Nika i Meda Pucica 15, Lapad, Dubrovnik.

ACI MARINA

42º 40,3´N / 018º 07,6´E. 5km from Dubrovnik city centre, at the mouth of the Ombla (Arion) river, spanned by a beautiful bridge. Tel.:+385 20 455-020. VHF Kanal 17. http://www.aci-club.hr/

MALI STON

An old fishing town north of Dubrovnik. Lots of oyster farms. Hotel Ostrea: A luxury boutique hotel run by the illustrious Kralj family. Excellent breakfast-particularly the cold cuts and breads. Mali Ston, 20230, Ston Tel:+385 20 754-555. www.ostrea.hr Kapetanova Kuca: Also owned by the Kralj family. The "Captain's House" next door is said to be the best seafood restaurant on the Adriatic. Everything is fresh and the oysters and delicious. Reservations are essential. The local Peljesac, Plavac and Dingac red wines are very good. Local Pag Island goat's cheese is sold at ACI Marina or at the shopping centre. A wheel costs around 480 Kuna.

LOKRUM ISLAND

A small island and national park surrounded by high cliffs and covered in forests. There are day trips from Dubrovnik. Great swimming. There are plenty of piers and showers. The island has two small lagoons and a restaurant. Smoking is forbidden. One nudist beach. You are not allowed to stay overnight.

ELAFITI ISLAND CHAIN

Sipan: There are enchanting bays around Sipanski Luka. The Albanian bakery is to the left of the pier. Make sure to try the tripe and potatoes at the restaurant-bar behind the ice cream stand to its left. Hotel Sipan: 20223 Sipanjiska Luka. Tel: +385 20 758-000. www.sipanhotel.com Lopud: This gorgeous island is the smallest island between Sipan and Kolocep. Maria's restaurant is on the corner before the Lafodia Hotel. Try the fried fish and sautéed mussels. The Sunj monastery lies at the end of the 1km long Sunj shore. Have breakfast at a cafe on the shore. Grand Hotel: +385 20 87 014. Hotel Lafodia: +385 20 759 012 Kolocep: There are two settlements on the island: Gornje Celo and Donje Celo. Famous for its 15th century summer palaces. Its rocky shores are covered in coral reefs. Its waters reflect every possible shade of blue. The shore is lined with hotels and restaurants, some large, some small. Excellent pomegranates and figs. The restaurants serve homemade lemonade. Boasting a pool and a great view, the Hotel Villas Kolocep is the best in town. A 500m long nudist FKK Beach is located beyond the Ruza restaurant in the marina. Hotel Villas Kolocep: Tel: + 385 20 757 025. Hotel Kolocep: Tel: +385 20 757 025/ 757 027

MLJET ISLAND
Enjoy a game of billiards and a cup of coffee at the Hotel Odisej in the centre of Pomena. The hotel's beach is a great place to swim, especially at sunset. The restaurants at the far left end of the marina serve excellent fish. At ticket to enter the Malo Jezerro (lagoon) and Veliko Jezerro National Park will only set you back about 40 Kuna. Make sure to take a canoe or motorboat to the small island in the middle of the lagoons to visit the Church of Santa Maria. This beautiful island also has a restaurant and a cafe. Smoking is forbidden in the national park. If you decide to go swimming in the lagoons, beware that the fish have a tendency to bite! There is a FKK nudist beach on the Malo Jezerro lagoon. Hotel Odisej: 20226 Pomena, Otok Mljet. Tel: + 385 20 744 022. Fax: + 385 20 744 042.

Buenos Aires: A South America wind

Although it is currently experiencing an economic crisis, Argentina is better known for the tango, Peron, Eva, the Falklands and Maradonna.

Argentina is a 2.8 million km2 country. Mendoza established Buenos Aires in 1536, 8 years after Magellan's explorations. After many clashes with the locals, Mendoza fled and Buenos Aires was a backwater for 270 years. Until 1912, only aristocratic landowners could vote. Under Halver in 1916-1930, the entire population got the vote and Argentina became very wealthy. From 1880-1930, 9 million people immigrated to Argentina from Europe, especially Spain. Halver was deposed by a military coup in the 1930s and the regime lasted until 1946. Peron and his wife Eva Duarte were in power until 1955 when there was another military coup. The economy floundered, and Peron returned in 1973 only to die a year later. His second wife and vice president Maria Estella became the first female leader in the southern hemisphere. In 1976, she was deposed in another bloody coup. Martial law was proclaimed, Parliament was shut down and General Videla became president. Galtieri became leader of the junta in 1981. In 1982, Argentina unsuccessfully occupied the Falklands. In October 1983, the junta was replaced by a civilian government. Livestock is an important part of the economy and Argentine meat is deservedly famous. 82kg of meat are produced per person.

Buenos Aires: A European city

Buenos Aires means 'pleasant wind'in Spanish. It lies on the delta of the River Plate. It is a city of conflicting and confusing architectural styles on grid-patterned streets filled with people, music and cars. Darwin came here in the 1830s and Rodin was a frequent visitor. He gave a copy of "The Thinker" to the city. A visit to Palermo Park and the Colon Theatre is a must.Eva Peron is a legend here. A film star who became the wife of Colonel Peron, she championed workers'and women's rights. 2000 mourners were injured on the crowded streets when she died at age 32 from cancer. Tourists and locals still bring flowers to her grave in Racholeta Cemetary.

A delta and a German battleship

The El-Pazo Delta is a beautiful place filled with large villas. In WWII, the Germans battleship "Admiral Graf Von Spee", captained by Admiral Hans Landgsdorff, sank 9 British commercial vessels but was attacked by 3 others. The damaged ship took refuge in the Plata Delta. The British weighed anchor at the mouth and the Uruguay government gave the Germans 48 hours to make repairs. Trapped, Landgsdorff released his men, opened the hatches of the ship and sank into the delta with it.

Tango: the philosophy of the streets

Tango was born out of "Lunfargo", a hybrid language of Italian, French and German spoken in the Buenos Aires underworld. It was once banned for being immoral. It is the physical expression of life in Argentina with sadness, passion and death in its steps.

Buenos Aires Guide

Climate
Buenos Aires is south of the equator so its seasons are the opposite of the northern hemisphere. In winter, (June to September), the temperature varies from 10C to 25C. In summer, (December to March), temperatures vary from 25C to 32C.

Visa
Turkish citizens do not need a visa for trips lasting less than 3 months.

Telephone
Argentina: 54. Buenos Aires: 11

How to get there
Air France: Daily flights except Monday and Wednesday via Paris. Tel: 212-256 43 56. Lufthansa: Daily flights via Frankfurt. Tel: 212-315 34 34. Iberia: Flights on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday via Madrid. Tel: 212- 237 31 04.

Where to stay
Buenos Aires Sheraton Hotel&Towers: Near shopping centres. Great views. Tel: +54 11/ 4318 9000 800/325 3535. Claridge: In the city centre. English style. Elegant bar and restaurant. Tel: +54 11/ 4314-7700, 800/223-5652. Hotel Salles: Near the National Congress Building and Avenido De Mayo. Small and modern. Tel: +54 11/ 4382-3962. Park Hyatt: Amazing view, perfect service. Tel: 11/4326-1234

Where to eat
Cabana Las Lilas: Buenos Aires's best meat restaurant. Features Argentina's best wines. Be prepared to wait for a table. Av. Dàvilla, 516. Tel: +54 11/ 4313-1336. Catalinas: Try seafood and game at this French restaurant. The lobster with caviar, eggs and cream is a must. Jackets required. Reconquista 875. Tel: +54 11/4313-0182. Rosa Negra: A former stable with Argentine and Italian food. Famous for its seafood ravioli. Dardo Rocha, 1918, San Isidro. Tel: +54 11/4717-2685. Novecento: American bistro. Try the special salad with steak, fresh greens, and chips. Bàez 199. Tel: +54 11/4778-1900. Gran Café Tortoni: A café since 1858 with tango nights on the weekends. Av. De Mayo 829. Tel: +54 11/ 4342-4328

The secret facade of France : Chateaus

There are so many splendid Renaissance chateaus in the Loire region of France that it's impossible to give an exact count. The various well-preserved artwork, furniture, and other items used in daily life inside these chateaus provide important historical clues regarding the French aristocracy between the 16th-19th centuries.

Our journey to the chateaus

Driving away from Paris, we first head southwest along the motorway, where we spend our first night in Tours, an interesting residential town going back to the time of the Gauls. It was an important center from the 4th to the 17th centuries, when the French Kingdom moved to Versailles. It also witnessed a plethora of battles and wars. We start out in the morning with Château Azar-le-Rideau, 25 km. outside Tours. It was erected between 1518-29 and was first used as a residence for the Imperial Treasurer. With its furniture and other items, this magnificent abode has the look of a Rennaissance museum. Our second visit is to Château Chenonceau, which was constructed like a bridge over the River Cher. Built between 1515-22, it has elements of both Gothic and Renaissance architecture. The tower separating the bridge from the main building dates prior to the 15th century.

Incredible gardens

Finally, we pass on over to Château Villandry, which posseses the nicest gardens in France. One can view all the magnificence of both the Normandy and Brittany shores from Mont St. Michel, considered to be the 8th Wonder of the World. Along with a 14th century tower, this chateau was constructed in 1532 and has since undergone several restorations. Comprised of 80,000 varieties of plants, the first of three gardens is situated closest to the chateau is known as the 'Kitchen Garden' The one just beyond the this garden is known as the "Ornamented Garden" and is divided into three sections. There's the "Love Garden," where flowers are clustered into heart shapes; the "Music Garden," and finally the "Spice Garden." Maybe they were trying to tell us that "Love is like good music but spicy." We spend the night in Angers where the hotel we stayed in was well-maintained, but the rates were rather high.

Mont St. Michel, the world's 8th wonder

Driving northeast to Mont St. Michel, we pass through some Normandy coast towns and cities to finally reach this mysterious monastery perched off-shore on a rocky point. The history of Mont St. Michel goes back to In the year 708, Christians declared the rocks sacred; construction began in the 10th century and continued for 600 years. Used as a prison during the French Revolution, it was later declared a national monument by the French Government. A narrow road connects it to the shore. From the terrace, it is possible to get a panoramic view of the Normandy and Brittany shorelines. As we head back to the shore, we decide that it's a nice spot to conclude our Tour de France.

The grave of a genius

Figueres is a fascinating Spanish town 1.5 hours from Barcelona by train. In the town centre stands the old theatre which survived the Spanish Civil War but burned down in 1939. Later, it was bought and redesigned by Salvador Dali who had held his first exhibition here when he was only 14 years old. In 1960, he decided to open it as a museum, despite opposition from the locals. Supported by the mayor Guardiola, it opened in 1974.

Walking across the grave of a genius

The main hall of the museum has a glass globe for a ceiling. The right hand wall is covered in a 420x317cm digitised picture of Abraham Lincoln. On closer inspection, the picture reveals a hidden nude figure looking out to sea. This is Gala-Dali's muse, guardian angel, lover and wife after 1958. In the centre of the red brick floor of the main hall lays a white marble slab. Many visitors to the museum nonchalantly walk across it. Few of them know that this is Dali's grave. Dali enjoyed shocking people when alive; in death, he seems to be having the last laugh with his incongruous grave.

Lip couches and a "Rainy Cadillac"

Upstairs is the Mae West Room. It has red walls, a red couch, two black&white photographs and a yellow triumphal arch. In the far right stands a staircase. At the top hangs a huge lens. Through it, you suddenly see the face of Mae West, the 30s film star. The arch is her hair, the couch her lips, the furniture her nose?From the ceiling, a complete bathroom with a bathtub, chair, chest of drawers and a book hangs upside down. In the centre of the interior courtyard stands a black 1940s Cadillac with a statue of a driver and passenger inside. Behind it is a column made of truck tires. If you insert 10 pesetas into a slot beside the car, you'll have the shock of your life. Let's just say that the name of the work is "Rainy Cadillac".

The pickings of the Bread Basket

Downstairs is a low-lit room lined with black curtains filled with the jewellery Dali designed for Gala. Behind a wall decorated with a cross and the words 'Salvador Dali Domeneci, Pubol Markisi, 1904-1989' lies the grave of Dali: a lifelong imperialist who never wore a watch yet was never late, who didn't believe in god but loved all people and who courted scandal. The museum also houses the painting that brought Dali fame at a young age: "The Bread Basket". Thanks to this work, Dali opened his first private exhibition in 1929 in Paris. He was invited to join the Surrealists until he was kicked out after a fight with its leader, Breton. Every work in this uniquely personal museum/mausoleum brings the visitor closer to appreciating the unique personality who created it.

Figueres Guide

Climate

The climate is typically Mediterranean. The weather is mild and bright throughout the year, and hot in the summer.

Visa

Spain requires a visa for Turkish citizens. Consulate in Istanbul Tel: 0212-270 74 10. Embassy in Ankara Tel: 0312-440 21 69.

Telephone codes

Spain 34. Figueres 972.

How to get there

The easiest way is to fly to Barcelona and then take a train. Trains leave from Barcelona for Figueres every hour. The 135km road takes about 2 hours. A return flight on THY leaving on Thursday (Saturday night compulsory) for 8-days costs 386 USD. A trip during the week covering at least three days costs 425 USD. Flights on Thursdays and Sundays at 09.45. THY: 4440849. Iberia flies daily to Barcelona at 15. 40. 386 USD return.

Where to stay

The nearest 5-star hotel is the Hotel Golf Peralade 10 minutes from the city . Tel: +34 972 538 830. www.gılfperalade.com. Some 3 star hotels in Figueres: Hotel Bon Retorn:*** Tel: +34 972 504 623 www.bonretorn.com Hotel Empordo:*** 3-star hotel famous for Catalan cooking. Tel: +34 972 500562. www.hotelempordo.com Hotel Pirineos: *** Tel. +34 972 50 03 12 - 972 50 03 16 www.hotelpirineospelegri.com

Where to eat

Figueres has its own special cuisine separate from Catalan or Spanish cooking. The produce comes from the local mountains, sea and nature. Fish is cooked in the simplest and most traditional way. Red sea bream, sargo and red mullet is grilled, baked or cooked in sauce, retaining its natural flavour. Meat ragout made with fruit, vegetables or mushrooms is also delicious. Try the local cuisine at the Bon Retorn or Empardo hotels. Antaviana: Catalan fare. Av. Pirineus, 2. Tel: 504 968. If you want to try tapas, head to Mary Fran. Pani 14. Tel: 511 444. www.figueres.net is a good source for hotels and restaurants.

What to drink

Although the region has long produced wines, wine bars and wine cellars have only appeared in recent years. These are ideal places to try the local wines.

New York: Journey to the centre of the earth...

Although Jules Verne's 'Journey to the Centre of the Earth' remains a work of fiction, the nearest you can get to subterranean travel is the New York City subway. With 468 stations and over 1000km of line, this is an underground world in itself. New York is the blueprint of the modern metropolis?a city filled with dreams, desires and drama. New York also invented the concept of the 'underworld'. The subway is not only filled with commuters on their way to and from work, but also with those who were let down by the American dream: the homeless, the beggars, buskers and addicts; the people the 'system' forgot or chose to ignore. The subway is a haven for misfits, and has its own unique history and culture.

On the one hand, the subway is the fastest and cheapest form of transportation. On the other, it is the 'home' of many homeless people. The socio-psychological pressure to be successful in this city is too much for some people to bear. They retreat into themselves, and sometimes under the ground. Their aimless travels on the trains reflect the fact that they have lost their path in life.

Number 7

Every door leads to another world in the subway. If you take the 7, the line starts in Flushing at Chinatown, then heads via the Latin, Greek, Jamaican, Croatian and even newly-forming Turkish neighbourhood in Sunnyside before reaching Times Square. The F train takes you via the touristic Chinatown and the Italian neighbourhood to the Jewish neighbourhood in Brooklyn, as well as to 'Little Odessa', the Russian area. Your journey may well be accompanied by the sounds of busking jazz musicians.

'Rush hour'
As fascinating as 'rush hour' is to tourists, it is the bane New Yorkers' lives. The crush and the crowds are unimaginable. For most New Yorkers, the subway is their only mode of transport. You can get to all the bus and train stations as well as airports via the subway. In a country where the automobile reigns supreme, the New York subway is a rare exception to the rule.
In the last quarter of the last century, some companies chose to leave New York as they found the city uneconomic and full of transportation problems. After September 11, the situation got worse as the subway routes to the city's financial heart were also cut off.

'9/11'
Except for the Civil War and the attack on Pearl Harbour, the US has never had war on its own land. So 9/11 came as a huge shock to the nation. New Yorkers are still suffering from the psychological and economic effects, making the city twice as stressful as it was. It seems likely that the sense of shock and alienation will last a long time. Some even say that the subway seems slower since 9/11.